Wine regions of the world 7 Burgundy Côts D’ Or.
This is the one region that I do not like for all the wrong reasons.
I do not like the region because of one actual wine that is above all other
wines I fell responsible for more snobbery and turning people away from exploring
more about wine. This wine I remember once was so much sort after and desired that
it was also I thing one of the reason why new world wines took such a strong
hold in the market. The wine I hold responsible is no other than Chablis. It
might be a hangover from the late 1980 when I was just a mere boy who was learning
his trade and this particular wine seemed to rule the world. It might be just
me and the number of bad experiences I had with this wine, not drinking it but
serving it to customer who seemed to have more money than taste and just wanted
to pay over the odds for a premier cru over chilled so you can hardly taste the
wine and then add some sparkling mineral water to it, to make a spritzer. It is perhaps these images that I have that
just make me shudder and think give me a good pint of best bitter I want to
give up on wine. I remember Water the restaurant manager at the time saying of
the wine of Burgundy, the reds are good but the whites are to dry and taste of
chalk and wee wee. A damming indictment
indeed.
But I did not give up on wine and I was redacted about this
region as I was introduced. It is a bit
like a block buster move that has so many good actors in it but all you know by
the poster and trailers is that it has one star, Chablis. Yes Chablis is a star
and known throw-out the world but Burgundy is so much more than just that.
Chablis is just the clock face but you need all the workings of the clock
behind the face to make the clock work and that is what you have to do. Get
behind the clock face, past all that everyone knows and sees and get to know
the works.
Part of the mystery seems to come from the fact that almost
all of the grapes that are grown are just Chardonnay for the white and Pinot
Noir for the red. But there are exceptions
to every rule, notably Aligoté ,
Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and more significant to the
reds Gamay. So to what should you look for these following names Pouilly-Fuissé,
St-Véran, Mâcon-Villages and Bourgogne Aligoté to name
but a few . get beyond the big names of the grand cru and premier cru and look
in to some of what is called the village wines will show the village name on
the wine label.
That is what you have to do with the wine from this region
look at the supporting cast and then if you ar lucky you will get to know the
big stars .
Of course I should not say that all Chablis is bad, far from
it , you do not get to be a big star for so long without having some talent.
And it is a very complex talent that could warrant a whole section if not more to disuse the complexity
of the wine. In cat it is not the wine that I have a problem with but some of
the people who I have encounter that have drank the wine. And to think of that
is that more a comment about me or the people how I met. As this is about wine
and not my personal hang ups I will not say any more.
He history of wine and this region does go back a long way ,
there is evidence of viticulture in Burgundy back in the Second century AD by the Romans.
The monks of the monasteries had an important influence, as monk did in almost
all production of alcohol. But as Burgundy is land-locked, little of its wine left the region. It was not
until medieval times when it was transported along the river ways to many courts
build its reputation.
But it was the Dukes of Burgundy who did the most for the
wine of the region, the first reliable reference to grapes and varieties come
from this time. Also producing red wine
of a quality that was able to impress
the papal court. Burgundy and Champagne were rivals for the lucrative Paris
market, but burgundy took the march with
its better reds.
After that Burgundy
became incorporated in the Kingdom of France and the rest is well known. The church slowly selling of the
lands and the vineyard until the French revolution when the rest was sold off.
In more modern times the region has experienced some effects
from the first world war, economic depression of the 1930s , the devastation of World War II . After this like most of Europe
it was sadly lacking in development. But now stands as one of the top wine
regions of the world.
So please get past the big stars and the big star price tags,
met the supporting cast of equally good talent and then move on up to the big
names. And do not let my predigest put
you off, like there are no bad dogs just bad owners, there must be no bad wine,
just bad drinkers.
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