What is more important good food or good service.
Now as I sit and think about this I find myself in the unusual
position that having worked both front of house and back of house I have seen
both sides of the coin. And now as a chef, surrounded by chef I am in the
company of people who constantly tell me that it is the food, the menu that is
what people are looking for. You need the best ingredients, locally sourced and
cooked with a very high level of skill. If you do not do this then you might as
well not open.
In fact the media seem to think that if you have a failing
restaurant all you need is a change of décor, a new menu and invite everyone in
for a grand reopening and that is the problem solved. If only life was that simple.
The problem is that service is just as important if not more
important as having great chefs and wonderful food. It is the service that
controls the orders that go into the kitchen , that can put a break on how many
orders are being taken and when. If they are all taken at once and delivered to
the kitchen at the same time the kitchen will go in to melt down very quickly. And
the same can be said for taking the food from the kitchen to the dinner. If it
is ready to go and on one takes it then the food goes cold, or just sits on the
pass waiting.
It is almost a waste of time for the chefs to even consider managing
to serve a complex menu to any customers in any significant volume unless you
have good service front of house. And when
I say good service I do not just mean the social graces that you need but also
the planning to go with it and the fast moving pace that is required as well in
so many places.
The pass is the area of the kitchen where the two worlds
come together, where the finished dishes are passed over from the chefs to the
waiting staff. It is at this point that the finished dishes are dispatched out
to the customer. Unless the chefs start to take the food from the kitchen to
the customer the final delivery is up to the waiting staff. It is at this point
the chef has to relinquish control and the service staff take over.
The waiting staff meet, they great and seat the customer,
offer their advice guide them through the dining experience. After time they can even become friends with
them, sharing in their lives as events are celebrated in the restaurant. Now that is almost if not as important as what
is on the plate.
To prove this how many times have you asked how an evening was
and the person has responded , we went to that place we always go, we like it
there and they do look after us so well. Then you ask how the food is and they say,
the food is ok, ok not great, not the best finest cooked but tortured artisan chefs
who lovingly prepare each and every dish. No they say it was ok.
You can have great food but without great service you are dead;
you can have medico food and with great service you probably will still do just
as well. And the reason for that is people are people and like to deal with
people. Good service staff should have the ability to be the walking embodiment
of the Rudyard Kipling's poem “If” and that is no mean feat.
So when I hear my fellow chef who go on about the food, the provenance,
the method and presentation. Remember after they have done that then it is over
to the front of house to do the rest. And in my opinion they are just as, if
not more important to the survival of a restaurant than any locally sourced Gloucestershire
old spot or the latest sous vide cooking techniques. They are the contact point
with the customer and without the customer you are just a empty building , looking for a
new proprietor.
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