Wine regions of the world 10, Czech Republic

This is a tricky one for me because I think I know more about Czech beer than I do about Czech wine but alphabetically I did Chile and in in my Oxford companion to wine Czechoslovakia is next. And that shows how out of date that book is as now, after the “Velvet Revolution” restored democracy in 1993 Czechoslovakia became the Czech Republic and the Slovak Republic. So starting from what could be consider out of date source material I decide that I would do little research in to the wine and go to the wine shop and organise a little tasting. It is tough dirty work but some had to do it, actually I was surprised but I will come back to that.

The Czech Republic has had some kind of wine making or viniculture for a long time. Like so many regions it was first the Romans who brought the vine to the area and it was the Romans who established the first vineyards.  In fact there are a number of stories about the wine and history of the area but my favourite was this one.  The legend has it that the Great Moravian Prince Svatopluk sent to the Bohemian Prince Bořivoj a barrel of wine. This was to help in the celebration of the birth of his son Spytihněv. And it was his Bořivoj's wife Ludmila who it is said, sacrificed some of the wine to Krosyně. Krosyně was a goddess of the harvest and Ludmila asked for abundant rain to save the crops. And that is what happen the rains came and the crops where saved. So Bořivoj and Ludmila out of respect for the gift of the wine and the saving the crops decided to plant vineyards around Mělník.  The first in Bohemian and their grandson Saint Wenceslas learned how to cultivate vines in these vineyards and how to make wine. And now a festival is held in his name every year at the end of September a wine festival is held in Mělník on Feast of St. Wenceslas.

Most of the wine produced comes from the southern region of Moravia, and some from Bohemia. In fact now the Czech wine law of 2004 defines two wine-growing regions,  Moravia  or Vinařská oblast Morava  and Bohemia or Vinařská oblast Čechy.

Moravia production is in the southern Moravia, particularly around the River Dyje. And here you have four sub regions Mikulovská, Znojemská, Velkopavlovická and Slovácká all named after the towns  of Mikulov,  Znojmo,  Velké Pavlovice  and the region of Slovácko.

As for Bohemia it has some of the most northerly vineyards in Europe. Situated around 50° north latitude, a very small collection of vineyards are split into two growing sub regions Mělnická after the town Mělník and Litoměřická after the town of Litoměřice. There are some small vineyards around Prague as well.

The most commonly grown white grape varieties in the Czech Republic are Müller-Thurgau, Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Riesling, Sauvignon blanc, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot gris, Gewürztraminer, Neuburger and Moravian Muscat.  And for the black grapes you have Saint Laurent, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, Blauer Portugieser and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Now this can cause some confusion, or it did for me, as each grape variety has a Czech name as well.

Now to things to look for on the label are the following terms, Vinařská oblast  means region,  Vinařská podoblast  means Subregion,  Vinařská obec  means Village and Trať is Vineyard. The others are the terms of classification.

 Jakostní víno s přívlastkem is a Quality Wine with Special Attributes; this wine must originate from a single wine sub-region and the grape varieties. Other things to look for are Kabinetní vino or Kabinet Wine, Pozdní sběr or Late Harvest, Výběr z hroznů or Special Selection of Grapes     Wine,  Výběr z bobulí or Special Selection of Berries, Výběr z cibéb is Special Selection of Botrytis-affected Berries, Ledové vino or Ice wine, Slámové vino or Straw wine. All of the following apply to special wine that are a little better than the rest. After the Jakostní víno s přívlastkem or Quality Wine with Special Attributes  you have your  Jakostní vino or wines of Quality. Here you have such wine that are categorised as Jakostní víno odrůdové or Quality Varietal Wine,  Jakostní víno známkové  or Quality Brand Wine. And then you have your Moravské zemské víno or České zemské víno and this is just the Country wine.

And this takes me back to the wine I tasted the first was a white 2011 vintage Veltlínské zelené a Moravské zemské vino from Moravia. And at the time I did not know that Moravské zemské vino meat country wine, and that it was nothing to special. And it was rather good, light dry and crisp but also full of spice flavours.  The second was a red 2009 Pinot Noir also a Moravské zemské vino from Morava. Now I did not expect that much from it, I do not know why, it was just a red from that area, so close to Germany not a place to get red wine but I was wrong.  It was full of fruit a little acid and a nice age finish from the barrel.  

And that leaves me asking just one thing, if the wines I had were just Moravské zemské vino or Country wine, then how good is the Jakostní vino or wines of Quality, or evan the Jakostní víno s přívlastkem is a Quality Wine with Special Attributes. I know to judge a whole region by just two bottles is somewhat erratic and fool hardy , but I can tell you I will be looking for Czech wine to try.