Wine regions of the world 11, German wine
I do not know
about most people but my first taste of wine was a German wine at Christmas
dinner table, just a splash in a glass. I do not know what it was and to be honest
at the time I was not really that bother but I do remember that it was sweet
and drinkable.
Now you could
say that this is a problem that German wine has suffered in this country over
that last few years. The trouble was that German wine was so easy to drink , it
was sweet and went down well, you could rely
on it from bottle to bottle to be the same. At the time, a great number
of the British armed serviced where posted in Germany , and grew a taste for the
wine. It did not seem elitist like French wine, and was well just better than
the so-called “Cheap Spanish Plonk” as I remember was a generic term used for
almost any thing from the rest of Europe . But
this changed and the new world wines started to come in to our shops. People
who drank wine tried other wines and found they liked them. And with all things
that you grow to like your taste change in them. With alcohol almost every one
starts with some thing sweet and then moves on to some thing dryer. I do not
know if there is a good reason for this or some thing that has been recorded in
a medical journal but that is my experience. Both as a consumer and a purveyor
of wine beers and spirits.
Also it
became a sort of social embarrassment to be drinking German wine. It was almost
as if you were saying to the world I have no real taste in wine so I drink this
and that would no doubt have been the good old Liebfraumilch. Probably one wine
this mainly cheap, mass-market, sweet wine has probably done as much damage to
the German wine industry as it has made them profits.
However, the
thing is once you get past that and really get beyond what after all probably
one of the best selling wines in the UK at one point, and take a little time to
get to know German wines you fine a very different picture.
Most of Germanys wine production is in the west of Germany , along the river Rhine
and its tributaries. The oldest vineyards can trace there history right back to
the Romans. Germany
has about 102,000 hectares or 252,000 acres of vineyards, total wine production
is usually around 9 million hectolitres a year. This goes in to making 1.2
billion bottles and that makes Germany
as the eighth largest wine-producing country in the world.
Germany
accounts for almost two thirds of the total white wine production. And you say
well it’s a big country it should be able to do that but 60 percent of the
German wine production is situated in the federal state of Rhineland-Palatinate,
which when you look at a map is just the bottom left hand side near France.
And this is
not to forget that as Germany
is known as a primarily a white wine producer they make red wine as well. In
fact the red wine production has increased since the 1990s and early 2000s,
mainly for domestic consumption. In fact, you can get almost any style of
German wine white wines, rosé wines, red wines and sparkling wines that range
from dry, semi-sweet and sweet.
And most of
this is due to the northerly location of the German vineyards unlike any other
in Europe . It is very difficult to get grapes
to ripen so far north. So most of the best vineyards are on steep slops
overlooking rivers. The vines often are trained on individual wooden stakes, or
Einzelpfahlerziehung. And it is this method of growing that produces such
unique and consistently good wines. I often think that this is down to the fact
that the geography of the vineyards still make it a very manual job. So the
growers really get to know there vines.
Now to know
what to look for on the label is relatively easy. You have 13wine regions or Anbaugebiete.
These are broken down into 39 districts or Bereiche and they in turn are broken
down into 167 collective vineyard sites or Großlagen, and finally individual
vineyard or Einzellagen. Now to go through all the regions would be to
complicated in this article so here are
the main regions the Ahr, Baden, Franconia,
Hessische Bergstraße, Mittelrhein, Mosel, Nahe, Palatinate, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Saale-Unstrut , Saxony and the Württemberg.
The most common
white wine grapes are Riesling, Müller-Thurgau,
Silvaner, Kerner, Bacchus, Scheurebe, Gewürztraminer,
Grauer Burgunder and Weisser Burgunder.
For your red wine you have Spätburgunder or Pinot Noir, Dornfelder Portugieser,
Trollinger, Schwarzriesling and Lemberger.
These are the main greap variatys but you will see others. According to
the German wine law, there is a list of grape varieties allowed in wine
production.
Now you know
the region and the grape then you need to look for the quality of the wine. Now
in true German efficacy the classification once you know the terms used tell
you a lot. There are basically 4 classification and they are as follows
Deutscher
Tafelwein or table wine mainly drank in Germany and not exported. Also can
be blended but it can not be a Qualitätswein. Then you have Deutscher Landwein or
country wine, both are just ordinary wines of the region or country.
Then you move
on to the Qualitätswein wines. Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete or QbA
is wine from a defined appellation. Then
you have Prädikatswein or Qualitätswein mit Prädikat or QmP. These wine are
made form grapes of higher ripeness. This means that thay have more fruit
characteristics and are of better quality. Now Prädikatswein is then split into
other categorise Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese,
Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein
Kabinett
wines are made from grapes that have achieved minimum defined potential alcohol
levels. Spätlese wines are late harvest, Auslese wines are select harvest, are
once again made from grapes that have achieved minimum defined potential
alcohol levels. Then you have Beerenauslese wines or berry selection, these are
made from grapes that may have been affected by Botrytis. This is a fungus that
perforates the skin forcing water out and concentrating all the other elements
making a very sweet wine. Trockenbeerenauslese
or dry berries selection wines are made from greaps form the vine that
look like raisin high in sugar making a extremely
sweet, concentrated wine. And finally Eiswein or ice wine is made grapes that have
frozen on the vine. Then are harvested and pressed in the frozen state.
Then you havehow
they taste form Trocken, dry wine, Halbtrocken, off-dry, Feinherb, slightly
sweet and Lieblich sweet wine . the only thing to throw a spanner in the works
is our old friend Liebfraumilch, this is classed as a Qualitätswein which can
be blended from several regions and still be classified as Qualitätswein.
And that is
it really German wine a victim of its own success, that became socially
unacceptable. Well I say look for Qualitätswein or Qualitätswein mit Prädikat and you will not be disappointed.
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